January 2010

Perfect for residents who receive small parcels and large pieces of mail on a frequent basis, the Oasis locking mailbox provides a protective environment in a clean, contemporary design.  Our one-of-a-kind, Patented Parcel Delivery door provides peace-of-mind in an age of increasing identity theft.

Features

Constructed of sturdy, galvanized steel, this locking mailbox is built to withstand the elements. The delivery and access doors are equipped with weather tight seals to keep mail clean and dry. All parts of the locking mailbox are assembled after they are completely powder coated to protect against joint and seam corrosion. Every aspect of the locking mailbox was selected to provide security, durability and style.

Oasis Mailbox

Product Options

The Oasis locking mailbox is available in three product styles:

» Oasis
» Oasis Jr
» Oasis Drop Box
» Oasis Multiple Units

All of our Oasis products are available in multiple colors, including: black, pearl grey, sand, white, and bronze.  Custom lettering using a variety of colors, fonts and even custom artwork can be created and factory applied to all our locking mailboxes.

You can find more information about each of our Oasis locking mailbox options by clicking on the product name above.

Oasis Mailbox

Installation Options

The contemporary design makes the Oasis locking mailbox the perfect choice for masonry column installations. Mailboxes can be mounted inside or on top of a column and a detachable USPS approved red flag alert can be mounted outside of the column.

Oasis Mailbox

Multi-Home Installations

The Oasis locking mailbox can be mounted in multi-home applications on both our standard and decorative posts. The standard post can accommodate two to four of both mailbox sizes. The decorative post can only be used with the smaller locking mailbox in a double configuration.

Our locking mailbox is ideal for residential, commercial and municipal application. To purchase a locking mailbox today, Order online here at BudgetMailboxes.com

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Perfect for neighborhoods with mounted letter boxes, our wall mount mailboxes bring style and elegance to every home they grace.  Our collection ranges from classic to contemporary design, certain to please every kind of aesthetic.  Constructed out of the highest quality materials, our wall mount mailboxes are both beautiful and durable, ensuring long lasting elegance.

Seamlessly combining form and function, the collection features large incoming mail slots, spacious storage compartments and secure locking access doors.  Explore the myriad of wall mount mailbox options below.

For more information about our wall mount mailbox options, please click on the mailbox that you are interested in and you will be taken to a page that outlines dimensions, installation instructions and color/finish options.

 

The Peninsula

Classic and timeless, the Peninsula wall mount mailbox is built with stainless steel then plated with a corrosion resistent high-quality metal.  Hand polished, premium finishes include Antique Brass, Satin Nickel and Antique Copper.  Each finish is available with or without the embossed "eternity" design.

                                        The Peninsula wall mount mailbox details

Peninsula Wallmount 2402ABE

The Lunada

The Lunada wall mount mailbox offers the classic lines of the Peninsula with a smooth painted finish for a look that is clean and elegant.  This high-quality mailbox is constructed out of 20 gauge galvanized steel and finished with a durable powder coat available in pearl gray, sand, black, white and bronze.

                                            The Lunada wall mount mailbox details

Lunada Mailbox 2450Z

The Metropolis

High style meets high security in this wall mount mailbox.  Heavy stainless steel construction resists the elements and is available in either a progressive swirl pattern or brushed satin finish.  The incoming slot is perfect for residents receiving larger items, such as magazines and bank check boxes.

                                      The Metropolis wall mount mailbox details

Metropolis Mailbox

The Soho

The Soho is a wall mount mailbox that offers the contemporary lines of the Metropolis  with a durable powder coated finish in pearl gray, sand, black, white or bronze for a clean, simple look.   The Soho is constructed from  heavy  20 gauge galvanized steel  to  ensure long lasting beauty.

                                                The Soho wall mount mailbox details

Soho Mailbox
 

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Architectural Mailbox Post

by Mailbox Guru on January 18, 2010

Our post mount mailbox collection exudes classic style. Beautifully crafted with attention to detail, these premium mailboxes enhance the exterior of any home. 

These post mount mailboxes include an array of decorative choices, allowing homeowners to easily select their mailbox color, custom lettering and a post that fits their installation needs. With so many options, everyone’s budget and aesthetic desires are sure to be met. 

This collection of post mount mailboxes includes a choice of the classic design or an elegant and innovative locking option. All our mailboxes are made with quality construction materials and offer a variety of installation options and accessories. View our entire collection below: 

The Coronado

Perfect for traditional curbside installations, the premier Coronado post mount mailbox is constructed from the highest quality materials. It includes a heavy-duty galvanized steel body and front door, in addition to a solid die cast brass frame, knob and flag to ensure long-lasting beauty. 

The Coronado Collection offers our widest selection of colors, accents and post mount options. 

Architectural Mailboxes
Coronado Mailboxes Architectural Mailboxes

The Bellevue

 The Bellevue post mount mailbox was created with the home builder in mind, allowing for custom touches such as knob and accent colors and door embossing to match community logos or architectural themes. The Bellevue mailbox is available for single or multi-home configurations. 

Built with a sturdy galvanized steel body and top quality solid die cast aluminum front and rear frame, the Bellevue post mount mailbox is an economical, stylish mailbox. 

Architectural Mailboxes
Bellevue Mailboxes Architectural Mailboxes

The Avalon

The Avalon post mount mailbox features the same stylish motif and is produced and packaged for the retail environment. The body is composed of sturdy galvanized steel and the contrasting aluminum accents have an antique finish. A variety of posts and mounting options are also available for the Avalon. 

Architectural Mailboxes
Avalon Mailboxes  Architectural Mailboxes

The Fairfield

The Fairfield post mount mailbox offers quality construction in a slightly smaller design. Constructed primarily of aluminum, the main body and contrasting cast aluminum accents are powder coated individually before construction for superior finish and long-lasting beauty. The Fairfield is produced and packaged for the retail environment.

Architectural Mailboxes
Fairfield Mailboxes   Architectural Mailboxes

The Geneva

The Geneva® combines elegance and innovation to create a locking post mount mailbox that’s stylish and secure. The Geneva features a large-capacity, hopper style door with locking rear access door to accommodate letters, magazines and small parcels.  Constructed with high-quality materials , the Geneva will enhance the exterior of any home while providing the same protection and peace of mind associated with all our locking mailboxes.

Architectural Mailboxes
Geneva Mailboxes   Architectural Mailboxes

Each of the products within our post mount mailbox collection are crafted with superior workmanship, designed to last a lifetime and will add instant curb appeal to every home they grace. Explore the many post mount mailbox product options Architectural Mailboxes offers.

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Yes! You Can Retrofit An Existing Brick Mailbox With a Locking Mailbox

Brick mailboxes are usually less secured since they do not have a locking mailbox installed. You may think that because your brick mailbox seems to be permanently mortared in the brick column, you cannot replace the "lock less" arch-top design with a modern locking design now widely available in the market.

Well, here’s good news: You can, at any time, replace your existing brick mailbox with a locking mailbox and have the peace of mind you so longed for when it comes to your mailing needs!

Are you up for some Do-It-Yourself project?

First, Check if Your Brick Column is Big Enough

The first thing you will need to figure out is if your existing brick mailbox is big enough to handle locking designs. Measure the distance between the end bricks. The most common brick mailbox layout is square with each side of the brick column having two full size bricks and an end brick.

There are 3 common brick sizes: Modular Size, Queen Size, and King Size. The distance between the end bricks on most brick columns built with modular brick and a standard layout is about 12" to 12 1/2.". For Queen size brick with a standard layout the distance is about 15" to 15 1/2" and for King brick the distance is about 16" to 16 1/2." Generally, you can expect brick mailboxes made with Queen or King size brick and a standard layout to fit just about any locking mailbox design. Brick Columns made with modular brick are a bit more complicated. Only a few locking designs are compatible with this type of brick mailboxes.

Get your hands on the project right away! Pay your brick mailbox a visit and measure the distance between the outer end-bricks. Then window shop for locking mailboxes and choose the design that you like to buy the most. Just make sure that the outside width dimension of the mailbox you’re about to buy is smaller than the distance between the end-bricks (outer bricks) on the mailbox. Your new locking mailbox has to fit in-between these end bricks therefore, the mailbox has to be smaller than the distance between the end bricks (outer bricks).

Measure the height of the locking mailbox then measure your brick column to make sure there is enough room for your mailbox to fit vertically. You wouldn’t want to make a mistake on the measurements!

Do You Have a Hollow Brick Column or Is it Filled with Debris?

Masons have different opinions on this one. Some want to build the outer walls of the brick column and fill the inside full with brick, mortar and other debris. Most of the time, they will dump their extra brick and mortar inside the column to keep from hauling it away. Other reasons for filling the inside is to build up a support for the metal mailbox inside the column. Furthermore, many masons believe that by filling the inside with brick and mortar, the mailbox is less susceptible to injuries, e.g., if hit by a truck, car or similar circumstances.

On the other hand, there are masons who build a hollow shell with nothing inside. They believe that they can save money by using less brick. Also, making a hollow shell brick column requires less time.

To help you determine whether your mailbox is hollow or filled with debris, pop the concrete cap on the top. This is fairly easy to accomplish since it is only mortared into place. But still be very careful not to break it as you pop it off. You can use a 2×4 and wedge it under the cap down to the top of the curb, then gently hit the 2×4 with a hammer close to the curb to pop the top off. Once it’s popped, slide it back and see if it is hollow or filled with debris inside.

Now It’s Time to Cut the Face with a Diamond Blade Saw

You probably don’t have one of these concrete cutting saws. Don’t fret because you can always rent or borrow from your friendly next-door neighbor! The average rental rate for one day is approximately $85.00. It’s user-friendly and you can quickly learn how to operate it but still, you need to make sure that you know everything about it before you leave the rental place. It is suggested that you use a hose to hook up to the saw and make your cuts wet. Wet cuts are easier and less messy to make and you get to see what you’re doing more clearly than when you cut dry, which is very dusty and hard on the saws.

Really carefully now, mark the area on the brick column where you’ll be cutting (make it about 1/4" larger than the outer dimensions of the locking mailbox you are about to install). If your brick column is filled with debris, then you will want to start the cut right at the very top course of bricks (you will be removing the top course of bricks). This is so you will have access to chip out the debris. If the mailbox is hollow, then you can leave the top course in place and cut below it.

Let the cutting begin! Time to start the saw and cut. You can make a 1/2" deep cut first to get your line straight before cutting all the way through the brick. Go right to the corners of your markings on the brick column but do not go over.

It is normal to have overcut areas where the round saw blade does not go completely through the brick at the corners. Just make sure that you don’t make your overcuts go past the corners where you marked the size of your locking mailbox. These overcuts will be visible after you install the mailbox and you wouldn’t want them there as they are not at all nice to look at. You may encounter this problem: If you go right to the corners with your round saw blade, then the saw won’t go completely through the brick at the corners and you won’t be able to remove the cut portion of the brick face.

Here’s the solution: Use your reciprocating saw. You will need a carbide blade for your reciprocating saw. Carbide blades can cut masonry. Use the carbide blade on your reciprocating saw to finish cutting out the overcut areas that your diamond bladed round saw couldn’t get. When you are done, you should be able to remove the cut section. You should have an exact square!

The Inside of Your New Mailbox Needs Some Preps

Removing the face of your brick column that has a hollow interior will require you to build a wooden platform inside for the new locking mailbox’s resting place. You may use Redwood to build this platform.

If your mailbox is filled with bricks, mortar and other debris, you will have to carefully chip the debris out. You can easily do this with the use of a hammer drill with a chisel bit. Again, if you don’t own one, you can rent this tool or borrow it from someone you know. Be very careful not to pry against the outer brick when chipping the debris out. The outer walls of the mailbox are weak since you have removed the top course of brick and the cap. If you pry against them, they might break. Chip out debris enough for the mailbox to fit fully back inside. You will want to have the mailbox protrude out the front of the brick column about 1".

Finally! Install Your New Locking Mailbox

The last and final step is of course, to install your new locking mailbox. For hollow brick columns, you can rest your mailbox on the wooden platform you built. Most locking mailbox designs come with 4 holes in the bottom for mounting. Use lag bolts and washers to mount your mailbox to the wooden platform. This will securely hold your mailbox into the brick column.

For debris-filled columns, hollow out debris right below the mailbox. Get some mortar mix and add water. Create a bed of wet mortar in the hollowed out area and set your mailbox on this bed of mortar. When the mortar sets, the mailbox will be secure.

You can also use cedar shims to make your mailbox equidistant from the brick (from the end bricks or outer bricks) on both side of the metal mailbox. This will further stabilize, center, and secure the mailbox in the opening.

When the mailbox is installed, then slide the concrete cap back over the top of the brick column and mortar it into place.

Expect to see an unsightly gap around the mailbox where you made your cuts (you will also see the shims you put in to center and stabilize the mailbox). To cover the gap and the shims, you can make a trim around the mailbox out of Trex brand decking. Rip a piece of Trex in half with a table saw. Then rip it in half thick-wise so you have pieces of Trex that are about 1/2" thick and 1 1/2" wide. Carefully cut and miter the corners and screw the Trex together like a picture frame just big enough to fit around the locking mailbox. Paint the Trex with your desired color and then glue it to the brick column with construction adhesive. If necessary, use clear silicone to fill the seam between the Trex and the brick to keep the water out.

Sounds like a lot of work? Before you give up on the project, think about the hassle of tearing down your whole mailbox and the expenses that entail when you opt to re-build a new one. Doing it yourself is much cheaper and when you see the fruit of your labor, the satisfaction is priceless!

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Make Your Mailbox Flag More Visible

It’s always great to have a big yard that offers a lot more privacy, however, when it comes to checking whether the mail has arrived or not, long driveways and huge lawns are not really friendly. 

Can’t see if your mailbox flag is up or down?

We all know that when the little red flag is up, new mail has been delivered but what if you can’t tell whether it’s up or down?

Use your old binoculars, perhaps? Getting an electronic gadget called MailAlert is also an option, but if you’re looking for an inexpensive or better yet, cheap alternative, get ready for some improvisation.

A visible flag is a thousand times better than walking to and from your mailbox just to check if the mail has arrived…

If you’re too lazy or busy to take your chance at a Do-It-Yourself improvisation, you can always opt to buy a new flag that you could position at an angle that is visible to you.

But if you’re up to the challenge, then try this ingenious way of tweaking your existing flag and making it as visible as you’d want it to be!

Most mailbox flags are made of plastic. The key strategy here is to be able to bend your plastic flag. Since it’s not easily bent like their metal counterparts, you have to heat the flag’s post with your dependable heat gun or good ol’ propane torch (don’t forget to wear working gloves for safety!) and turn it 90 degrees. Hold the flag firmly in its new position for 30 seconds or up until the plastic cools and solidifies.

Warning: Don’t Overheat the Flag!

If you don’t want the flag to melt, turn black, catch fire or all of the above then don’t overheat it!

The Finish Product

A mailbox flag that has a perfect 90 degree twist! Flawless – no melted portions, no discoloration, whatsoever!

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How To Repair or Replace A Damaged Mailbox Post

Although high-quality mailbox posts are sturdy and tested to withstand the harshest weather conditions, there may still come a time when you have to repair or replace yours. 

Removing the old box from the post or vice versa requires a much higher degree of difficulty than removing both at the same time. Allow me to assume that you are here because you wish to replace your mailbox and post. 

Let there be no cement! When you are removing the old post, cement makes detachment harder. Wiggle, pull, wiggle harder, pull harder! Ask someone stronger to do it for you if you must. 

If there is no cement, you can nail or screw a piece of 2×4 or larger lumber to the post at or within a few inches of ground level. Then, using a big pry bar or the mason’s bar, pry the post straight up, using another board, toolbox, or if you’re running out of resources, even your wife or husband as a fulcrum! The latter does not promote a healthy relationship, by the way.

Unleash the MacGyver in you! You may even use an automotive tire jack to lift your mailbox post!

If your post is heavily set in concrete then that is a major issue. Those foundation-like clumps of rocks and gravel mix are most of the time so strong and so when the digging started, you just wish to choose a new location for the box!

You may be left with no option but to move the cement. Sometimes, it’s easier to dig the hole a little wider and muscle the ball of concrete aside. Just install the new post next to it.

US Postal regulations about mailbox location and height

To ensure safe and efficient mail delivery, the US Postal Service has issued regulations regarding curbside deliveries. However, the local post office has the final say in mailbox placement. The old guidelines were:

Vertical height from road surface to bottom of mailbox: Between 41" and 45".

Distance from outside edge of curb or edge of road surface to front of mailbox : 6-8"

These guidelines were in effect since February of 2001.  However, more recent requirements, starting December 9, 2004 are less specific in terms of height measurement and location.  Now the post has to be approved by the local post office and 2) accessible from the vehicle for curbside delivery such that the carrier does not have to leave his vehicle.  That means that any obstruction, including parked cars, snow piles, etc. , give the carrier the right to withhold delivery until the removal of the obstruction. (Click HERE for a complete list of the newer requirements.)

Need to install a post with an extending arm? Base the final position, not just on the arm, but on the box itself!  Make sure that the arm is much higher specifically if you plan to hang the box.  (More details on mounting the box below.)

If you feel your situation is quite different from normal circumstances and would like some exception, kindly ask your friendly postmaster or postal carrier for assistance.

Thinking of creating your own mailbox?  Before going solo…

Make sure you check with your friendly postmaster or carrier to seek approval before you spend time, extra effort, and money on it!  Remember that a poorly or mistakenly designed mailbox can halt your mail delivery! This can cause a lot of trouble!

Choosing your new mailbox post -  Going for wood or not?

Plastic
You have the option to choose from a variety of mailbox posts.  Plastic mailbox posts are perhaps the most durable. They come in different shapes, colors, and sizes. You can expect to spend less if you choose a plastic mailbox post. That is, if you are not too keen on achieving that classy sophisticated feel that wood or metal posts exude.

Aluminum and galvanized steel
Metal posts are either manufactured from galvanized steel or aluminum. Expect both materials to be sturdy but aluminum is even more dependable. Although more expensive, aluminum posts do not rust and the finish withstands weather conditions that’s why they look new longer.

Wood
The traditional choice is of course, mailbox posts made from wood. Those who want to DIY choose wood because it is cheap and easy to assemble. The most inexpensive post is a simple 4×4 or 6×6 post of any wood variety.  A 3/4" – 1" thick pine, plywood or cedar wood base is attached to the top of the post and the mailbox is securely screwed onto it.  The base should fit into the recess under the mailbox.  On most boxes, you will need to leave some space at the door end of the base to prevent rubbing.  Test the door mechanism before making the final box installation.

If you have a bigger budget and want a more fancy post, you can buy wood posts with a horizontal arm, complex supports and other ornamentation and features (of course, you can always build one yourself).  These are available in redwood, cedar and various untreated and pressure-treated woods. 

Wood types have their advantages and disadvantages:

  • Cedar and redwood are expensive but proven to be insect resistant. However, it will eventually rot if buried.  To get the most out of your money, use an underground preservative (see next section for details) applied right to ground level to keep your cedar/redwood post looking great for a long time.

  • Untreated woods, e.g., Douglas fir and pine, can be used for mailbox posts but would require preservatives both above and below-grade.  Warning: They are not insect resistant and they rot quickly.

  • Pressure-treated wood is much more recommended as it has high resistance to rot and insects due to the infusion of a powerful preservative and will last longer underground than any other wood type.  However, it still needs to be coated with a protectant above ground. Otherwise, it may crack, twist and split! If you would like to learn more about pressure-treated wood, click HERE!

  • If you are planning to build a masonry mailbox post and/or include granite, concrete, stone or brick, make sure it conforms to both local or state code as well as postal requirements.  Safety comes first at all times and you don’t want your state or town to consider your post a community hazard! You could be spending hundreds of dollars when you are summoned to act on its immediate removal.

Underground Preservative for a Well-Prepared Mailbox Post (for Burial)

Fact: Creosote is definitely out!

Welcome to the New Age of Pressure-treated Mailbox Posts! They do not rot even after many, many years! Except maybe if they’ve been exposed to abnormal and extreme conditions of moisture, snow plow or injuries. 

Thinking of using Cedar? Sorry but give it over 36 months and you will see your $200 post being eaten by ants and worms like there’s no tomorrow! 
If you’re still on the lookout of quality underground preservatives, you can try Termin-8 by Jascoor Termin-8.

Another product that is new in the market but likewise works well is Woodlife Creocoat from Wolman

The end of your post is most vulnerable to water damage. Pour some of the preservative in a small pail and set the post into it to soak as long as you can… preferably overnight. For best results, cut off a few inches from the end of the post immediately before soaking it. Don’t forget to coat the rest of the post right up to ground level.

DO NOT install a mailbox post in cement unless absolutely necessary!

The reason is obvious! There will come a time when you will get tired of your mailbox post and would want to replace it with a newer model. How can you remove 160 pounds of rock-hard concrete mix, buried 18" into the ground, without breaking your back?!

Think about your health, please.

If you are particularly installing a fancy ornamental iron post, which generally don’t stand upright very well in soil despite what it says on the box,  you can use cement… but just enough to stabilize the post, again, just enough!

Don’t Go Way Too Deep in Digging the Hole! Here’s How to Do It Easily.

To tell you the truth upfront, there isn’t an easy way. But we just don’t quit the fight, do we? Purchase or rent a post hole digger so you disturb a minimum amount of soil.  The hole should be no more than 18-24" deep.   Don’t go way too deep, it’s just a mailbox post we’re about to bury!

For rocky soil, you may need a long mason’s bar, a rounded heavy steel bar from 4′ to 6′ long, flattened to a wedge-shape on one end. This can be used to pry out rocks and the flattened butt end can be used for tamping.

Adding gravel, leveling the mailbox post and filling the hole in steps…

For Cedar Posts: To improve drainage and to keep water from pooling at the bottom of the post, it’s recommended to put 4-6 inches of gravel (or any bunch of small stones) in the bottom of the hole.

Check the level of your mailbox post all the time. A leaning post is not really attractive, is it? Don’t put the level on the top of the post… the top might not be square!  Always check the level from the side.

You can screw or clamp boards to the post to hold it upright.  Or wedge a few rocks around the post in the hole for temporary support.  Or just hold the new post fairly level as you begin filling, making minor corrections as you fill.  (You can always ask the kind help of your family and neighbors if they are willing!)

Filling the hole around the post should be done in steps, packing or "tamping" down the soil as you fill around the post, 6-12" at a time. The post may be loose If you wait until the hole is full before packing. You can use almost anything that will fit into the hole to pack the soil… a shovel handle, the but end of your masons bar, 2×4, etc.   Just keep checking that level!!

Installing your mailbox on the post

You have two methods to choose from, depending on whether you want to mount your box directly atop the pole or onto the top of an extended arm, or if you want to hang the box beneath the extended arm

Don’t ever nail the mailbox to its support… always use galvanized or stainless-steel screws.  If your mailbox does not outlive your post, you want it to be easy to remove.  Galvanized square-drive decking screws are a great choice.

(1)  Mount a board directly on the mailbox post or on the arm extending from the post
If you don’t have a board for the post, you must cut a piece of ¾" plywood or pine that will fit into the base of the mailbox. It should be a tight fit widthwise so the box doesn’t bend when you screw it on, and short enough in length so the box door doesn’t hit the board when the door opens. Position the board as you like it on the post or arm and secure it with at least 4 wood screws. You can use #8 or #10 galvanized square drive screws, 2½" -3" long. If you are using a post with an arm, you may want to let the board overhang the end of arm for clearance of the door.

(2)  Hanging the mailbox under an arm extending from the post
You can buy a special set of bolts designed for hanging a mailbox from your local hardware or home store. The special set consists of an eye bolt and an screw eye, interlocked and ready to use. The eye bolt is screwed into the underside of the post arm and the bolt is attached to the top of the mailbox.  It may or may not come with a rubber washer to seal the outside of the hole.

If these parts are not available from your hardware store, you can either (1) use an eye bolt on the mailbox and a hook on the post arm, or (2) use an eye bolt and screw eye of the same size and bend either open to allow you to hook them together… then bend them closed. For each eye bolt, you should get two nuts, one for inside and one for outside the box, and a small rubber washer (a faucet washer will do) slightly larger than the nut, for the outside to prevent leaks.

Determine the location of the eye bolts on the box first. Some mailboxes have indentations or raised areas to indicate the suggested location for the eyebolts. Locate and drill the holes in the mailbox. Hold the box up under the arm in the position you want it, and use a pencil to transfer the location of the front-most hole you just made to the underside of the arm, being sure to center it along the width. Measure between the holes on the mailbox, and use this measurement to locate the second hole on the arm. Predrill both holes and install the screw eyes.

Put one nut on each eye bolt, and then push on the rubber washers. Bore out the centers of the washers with a drill if they are too tight for the bolts. Then put the eye bolts through the holes in the mailbox and secure them with the remaining nuts, tightening securely.

NOTE:  You can use a dab of caulk instead of a rubber washer.  The washer, however, will probably last longer.

More interesting facts! Mailbox numbers, etc.

  • Your street address number is required on the side of the box or post. It should be clearly visible and facing an approaching mailman. 
  • If your box location is on another street (for example, if your home is on a corner), regulations require that both the house number and street name be on the box or post. 
  • You do not have to put your name on the mailbox unless you want to for a more personalized effect. 
  • Placing offensive graphics, caricatures or effigies intended to ridicule or disparage an individual or group of people is obviously and strictly prohibited.
  • Advertising on mailboxes is also not allowed.

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